HVAC Frequently Asked Questions
How Does An Air Conditioner Work?
The majority of home and smaller commercial air conditioning systems circulate a compressed gas refrigerant in a closed “split” system to cool and condition inside air. The refrigerant has to be re-cooled and condensed, and outside air is the medium most often used to accomplish this. The term “split” simply means that components are divided into inside and outside portions as opposed to being located together in a “package” unit. The refrigerants, widely recognized by the trademark “freon” (which is a registered trademark of the DuPont company for refrigerants), helps cool and dehumidify the inside air. In a “forced air” system, an internal blower circulates the conditioned air through ducts to the rooms where the cooler air is needed. The air ducts generally run either below the ceiling and inside the rooms (conditioned air) or in the attic (unconditioned air). An outside fan pulls air across the external parts of the system to cool and condense the refrigerant.
This program places the ENERGY STAR label, a small blue, and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high-efficiency products.
Whatever you decide, the most important consideration is the contractor you use. For your protection, make sure you use a licensed contractor for your installation. A licensed contractor using the best refrigerant practices and procedures can save you time and money! You may buy the best system in the world but if it is not properly installed, you will actually be buying nothing but a big headache for years to come.
An Air Conditioning unit can have two functions – heating/cooling and humidity control. With an auto changeover switch on most new units, you set the temperature and the unit will cool or heat as required automatically.
During warmer months, a heat pump works as a normal air conditioner. It extracts heat from inside the home and transfers it to the outdoor air. In colder weather, however, the process reverses—the unit collects heat from the outdoor air and transfers it inside your home.
Even when the air outside feels extremely cold, the air still contains some heat. The heat pump pulls the heat from this cold outdoor air and sends it inside to warm your home. When there’s not enough heat in the outside air to meet the demand of the thermostat setting, an electric heater supplements the outdoor air to warm the home. Extremely efficient, this process produces two to three times more heat than the energy it uses.
However, keep in mind, if you do not use much heat and you are thinking about replacing your system, a heat pump is more expensive to purchase upfront and you will only receive a return on the heating portion of your investment when the system is in the heat mode. Additional electrical requirements may also come into play when switching to a straight cool/electric heat system.
In some instances, with a ductless mini or multi-split the air handler may NOT require a duct system at all, therefore the name, ductless.
You can also tell by how warm your house stays throughout the winter. If some rooms are colder than others, or if you find that you are turning up the thermostat more often, your heating system may not be running very efficiently. Check your thermostat setting. Is your heating system achieving the desired temperature setting you are requesting on the thermostat? If not, call one of our HVAC professionals to inspect and test your heater.
There are five main questions that need to be considered when deciding to either replace or repair your heating and cooling system:
- How old is your system? If your system is more than ten years old, it may be wiser to invest in new, higher efficiency equipment, which could cut your energy costs by up to 40%.
- What is the efficiency level of your current system?
- What was the efficiency when the system was new? Unfortunately, replacing parts of your old system will not improve efficiency. If the energy savings of using a higher efficiency system will cover all or part of the cost of investing in new equipment, you should seriously consider the replacement of the old system.
- What is the overall condition of your system? If your system is in solid condition, it could be wiser to simply repair it. But if your system breaks down often, you should consider replacing it. Consider the 50% Rule.
- The 50% Rule- If the cost of repair vs. replacement of your system is less than half of its value and you haven’t been suffering the financial burden of frequent service calls to keep your system up and running, repair may be easier on your checkbook. Ask your technician to calculate the efficiency and energy usage of your system to help make a determination.
Duct-work is composed of two parts, supply, and return. The supply duct is attached to the outflow of the new system, delivering air to each zone in a home. The amount of air reaching each zone is determined by the size of supply duct-work connecting it to your system. Your dealer will help you determine the size of all the supply duct work in your home.
The second part of the duct-work, the return duct, attaches to the inlet of the new system and draws air out of the spaces to be heated or cooled. Attached to the return duct is the filter. The filter should be placed as near to the furnace or air handler as possible. Duct-work can be either fiberglass or metal and must be properly sized in order to evenly distribute the proper amount of air to each room.
The condenser is installed outside the home or business typically on a code-approved surface. The conduit is then run from the outdoor unit to the individual room within the structure that you choose, even an attic or garage. Depending upon the system design, use of wall-mounted interior units, ceiling mounted units, recessed fa coils, floor mounted air handlers are then installed and secured in the appropriately desired spaces to control cooling, heating, and humidity as needed and designed.
One or a series of indoor units and refrigeration lines are used to transfer the cooled air from the outdoor condenser to the indoor units of your choice. It works in reverse with heated air in the winter. Units can be placed in any rooms you like and because each unit is individual, you control the specific temperature in that room instead of needing to set one thermostat for the entire house. As a result, you save money by cooling or heating only space you are using. One of its greatest advantages is TRUE ZONING!
Like the miles-per-gallon rating on your automobile, the higher the AFUE rating, the lower your fuel costs. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. According to the EPA- AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic, garage, or other partially conditioned or unconditioned space. All furnaces manufactured today must meet at least 80% AFUE in the south and 90% AFUE in the North. If your furnace is 10 – 15 years old, it very well may fall below the current furnace minimum and waste energy- costing you money.
When shopping for high-efficiency furnaces and boilers, look for the ENERGY STAR® label. If you live in a cold climate, it usually makes sense to invest in the highest-efficiency system. In milder climates with lower annual heating costs, the extra investment required to go from 80% to 90% to 95% efficiency may be hard to justify.
This doesn’t mean that you should only select a furnace based on its AFUE rating. The efficiency rating is just one factor to consider when looking for a new furnace.
To better regulate temperatures and airflow, modern furnaces move more air over the heat exchanger than older furnaces. The air that comes out of your furnace registers may not seem as warm as the air from your old furnace, but overall airflow is improved. Better airflow means higher comfort.
Also, new furnaces are designed to integrate with high-efficiency air conditioners, so furnace blowers are more powerful to accommodate add-on cooling. Since cold air is much heavier than warm air, your system needs an extra boost from the blower to deliver cool air throughout your home. If you have an older home, this performance boost could produce unfamiliar sounds because air duct systems were originally designed for heating only. To minimize sound levels, choose a variable speed product that automatically changes speeds to meet the airflow needs of both heating and cooling cycles.
What Are Some Types Of Thermostats?
There are five basic types of automatic and programmable thermostats:
- Manual
- Digital
- Digital- Non- Programmable
- Digital- Programmable
- Remote Access
- Touchscreen
- Wireless-WiFi
- Smart
Most range in price, call and ask us which is best for you. Think thermostats don’t matter? Think Again! Thermostats control half of your home’s energy use. That is more than appliances, computers, stereos, and lighting combined!
We spend most of our time indoors, so breathing healthy air where we live, work and play are critical. Indoor air pollution has the same negative effects as environmental pollution.
Ask us how to identify and restore the indoor air quality in your home or office.
EPA: According to two studies, operating UV lamps installed in HVAC systems to irradiate the surfaces of air-handling units does not result in increased concentrations of ozone.
- the number of people who live in your home
- if there are pets in the house
- if there is a smoker in the house
- if you leave the windows open
- if you have pollen-bearing trees or plants in the neighborhood
- if you live in an area with a lot of dampness
- if you live in an area that is dry or arid
- plus many others
If several of these factors sound familiar, you’ll likely experience a quicker loading of particles on your filters and will consequently have to change it more often. A good rule of thumb is to check your filter every month. If you can hold the filter up to a light and not see through it, it is time to change your filter. At an absolute minimum, you should change your filter every three months. A clean air filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system, which could lead to expensive maintenance and utility bills.
Remove the dirty filter:
Dispose of the dirty filter in a bag to contain the dirt.
Install:
Install the new or cleaned and dried air filter with the airflow arrow pointing toward the blower. Record the date and wash or change the filter within the recommended period. If you experience higher dust levels in your home due to changes in outside air, construction, or dry weather, you may need to change or wash your filter more frequently than the recommended period. For questions or concerns about the location or installation of the filter contact the HVAC manufacturer or give us a call. As a reputable HVAC contractor, we can make recommendations that are right for both you and your system.
- Essentially your air conditioner filter is a collector of dust, dirt, grime, and other nasty microscopic things that float around your home. When your heating or cooling system is turned on, it collects these particles to protect your system and clean your home’s air, which protects YOUR lungs. Like the lint trap in your dryer, it accumulates a thick layer of these air-borne particles as it circulates air throughout your home.
- Once it has trapped a certain amount, it becomes full and ineffective and gradually restricts the airflow moving through your system. This requires your system to work harder to keep you cool or warm, wasting energy and increasing your monthly bill. As air filters get dirtier, they also become less effective at capturing the airborne germs and pollutants that can irritate your family’s breathing. Stuffy noses, sneezing, allergies, and even asthma are triggered. Your family inhales what your filter can’t handle any longer.
- An old and forgotten filter can eventually accumulate so much dirt and grime that it can totally choke off the airflow to the system causing a myriad of problems. In the worst case, the filter will be sucked into the blower motor and cause thousands of dollars in damage to your system.
We can help taking care of your new heating and cooling system. Enroll in our Service and Maintenance Program, and our Customer Care Specialists will send a technician to your home when it is time to check the whole system per manufacturer’s guidelines to make sure it is safe to use and performs at peak efficiency and while they are there, they can check, clean and/or replace your filter, if available.
Plumbing FAQ’s
From emergency plumbing services to slab leak repair, we’ve gathered a list of frequently asked questions. We have you covered whether you’re thinking about what sort of plumbing repair is ideal for you or need to know when to schedule your next inspection.
- Copper: Copper pipes were used in most homes built between the 1970s and early 2000s. When they’re new, they’re a golden brown color, but over time, they turn to a deep rust or brown color. Copper pipes can last up to 50 years.
- Galvanized Steel: Pipes that are gray in color are most likely constructed of galvanized steel. This material is less expensive than copper and was commonly used in houses up until the 1970s. When builders discovered that it only lasted for around 40 years, they stopped using it as much.
- PB (polybutylene): “PB2110” is the most popular marking for this piping. These flexible pipes are usually gray, although they may also be black or blue.
- PVC (polyvinyl-chloride): White plastic pipes are most often seen beneath kitchen and bathroom sinks, where they serve as drain pipes.
- PEX (cross-linked polyethylene): Plastic tubing that is usually white, red, or blue and is used to indicate hot and cold pipes. Because of its flexibility, plumbers employ this material often.
- Cast Iron: This pipe has a black finish and was in widespread use from the mid-1960s to around 1970.
- Clogged toilet
- Clogged bath or shower drain
- Garbage disposal blockage
- Lacking hot water pressure
- Running toilet sewage smell in the house
- Sewage odor in your house from a blocked sewer line
- Backed-up sewage system
- Low water pressure
- Leaky faucets
- Leaking pipes
- Water heater repair issues
Although pouring Drano down your drain may seem appealing, a number of home remedies for drain cleaning can be ineffective or worse, harmful. At-home techniques for drain cleaning entail too much guesswork that only masks your plumbing concerns rather than resolving them all at once. Snaking your drain on your own only reaches surface clogs and blockages, not deeper ones within the pipe that are causing the actual issues. In addition, chemical drain cleaners include hazardous chemicals that form slime and sludge in your pipes, which can remain there for long periods of time. Instead of attempting to fix your plumbing problems yourself, contact us immediately.
- When using the garbage disposal, use cold water.
- If there is no garbage disposal, a drain strainer should be used.
- Grease or oil should not be poured down the sink.
- To rinse away grease from dishes, run hot water after they’ve been washed.
- Drain stoppers in the shower and bathtub should be removed to prevent blockages.
- Flush down any loose items, such as toilet paper, using the toilet.
- Every two to three years, inspect your septic tank and pump it if necessary.
- Coffee grinds, bones, grease, fruit peels, and other fibrous items should not be put in garbage disposals.
Is it only one faucet, drain, or shower that’s having trouble? Is the problem confined to just one pipe and will wait until Monday morning? Can you turn off a water valve to stop the issue? If you can temporarily stop the problem, wait until regular business hours to call the plumber. Is the water still flowing? Call an emergency plumber if your water is entirely turned off (and not a municipality problem). Is there flooding in your home or outside of it? If a leaky pipe or water main break causes flooding inside or outside of your house, you’re dealing with an emergency.
- Floors that are wet or sponge-like
- The monthly water bill suddenly rose by a large amount.
- You hear the sound of running water coming from the walls
- Water pressure is low.
- One area of the yard is greener than another.
If you have any of these problems, call your local plumber for leak detection assistance.
- Plunger: Plunge the plunger several times around the toilet drain to seal it. If the plunger doesn’t work, try a plumbing snake.
- Plumbing Snake: A plumbing snake, sometimes called a drain snake, may be used to remove a clog from the toilet drain.
If none of these suggestions work, and the water from the toilet is not releasing, contact your local plumber immediately.
- Constant clogging
- Several flushes needed after each use
- Age (toilets over 10 years old aren’t energy efficient)
- Leaks that continue to occur
Common trenchless sewer repair types include:
- Pull-in-place lining
- Inversion lining
- Epoxy coating
Each of these processes has its own set of standards and pricing scale.
- Tree Removal: If the tree continues to be a problem, have it cut down by a professional arborist. Because of the small amount of labor required to repair your plumbing on a daily basis, the cost of tree removal will be insignificant in comparison.
- Root Barrier: Install a root barrier around each new tree by digging an 18 to 24-inch trench circling the root zone and filling it with dirt. The roots of the trees will not be able to invade your pipes as a result of the barrier.
- Routine Plumbing Maintenance: Every two to three years, have your camera inspected to catch invasive roots. You may detect minor plumbing problems before they become costly repairs.
- Sewer Line Cleaning: The usage of hydro jetting to clean your pipes is a green method of pipe maintenance. The high water pressure can cut through obstructions, waste, and tree roots.
- Caulk and seal tubs and showers fully.
- Examine for leaking faucets indoors and outside.
- If you reside in a cold region, insulate your pipes.
- Visually inspect the hose of your dishwasher or washing machine for cracks and tears on a regular basis, and replace as needed.
- Before installing insulation, run the heating cable along the pipes to keep them at a consistent temperature. The wire will maintain the pipes at a constant temperature.
- Examine the outside of your house for any visible cracks near the foundation or basement. Cracks should be filled using spray foam or caulking.
- To prevent your outdoor faucets from freezing, turn off the water valves. Allow any extra water to drain before then cover the faucets with an insulating dome to prevent ice from forming.
- Open the cabinet doors so that the warm air in your house may reach the pipes beneath your sinks.
- Allow your faucet to drip a tiny bit of water slowly. Running the water somewhat will assist avoid frozen pipes.
Have your HVAC system inspected annually to avoid it from breaking down during the winter months. Extreme cold may put a strain on your pipes quickly.
Our experts are here to assist you with keeping your house in excellent working order. We’ll assess the issues, talk about the issue, and offer straightforward solutions to get your property back to normal right away. For all of your plumbing or HVAC needs, contact us today!